I first learned about Fred Harvey a few years ago, when I was reading a filmography of Judy Garland, and saw a movie listed named
The Harvey Girls. Some of you who are old film buffs may have seen it. I watched it, and though I wasn't terribly impressed, the movie led me to do some digging around about the Fred Harvey food system.
My passing interest in Fred Harvey surfaced again this summer, when Bow Tie Man and I, on our anniversary, found ourselves browsing a local bookstore in the effort to soak up some much needed airconditioning. (We only have a tiny window unit in our house.) While perusing the History section, I stumbled across a book titled
Appetite for America: How Visioniary Businessman Fred Harvey Built a Railroad Hospitality Empire That Civilized the Wild West. I picked up the book on a bit of a lark, and boy, was I glad I did!
The Fred Harvey Company is, according to most historians, the first food chain in America. It all started when Fred, an Englishman by birth but American by immigration, decided to purchase a small train stop restaurant and drastically upgrade both the physical elements of the restaurants, as well as the food. With that one site, a small revolution began. Soon Fred was running a dozen train stop restaurants for the Atchinson, Topeka, and Santa Fe railroads. The Fred Harvey system, as it was known, brought cleanliness and simple elegance to restaurant eating, which in America's west had been slovenly at best. Fred Harvey restaurants served their food (cooked fresh from local products, as much as possible) on real china, on Irish linen tablecloths! That must have been something to see, in those dry, dusty, western towns!
One of the most interesting things I learned while reading about Fred Harvey, was how the idea of the Harvey Girl - a female waitress in one of Fred's restaurant's - came about. Apparently Fred, like George Pullman, first attempted to hire black men to work in his restaurants, but when this method proved to be unsuccessful (thanks to his racist patrons), one of his staff suggested that perhaps young women might have a more mellowing influence in the dining room. Fred agreed to give it a try - provided the girls meet certain regulations. They had to be single, from out of town (Harvey Girls were intentionally shuttled to new locations, in the attempt to hire women who were looking to work for awhile, not just a few weeks), and sign a six month contact saying they would not marry until their time with the company was done. All the girls lived in dormatories that were overseen by a house mother. An entire American subculture was born with the Harvey Girls, that lasted well into the 20th century, when Harvey Girl reunions were often held.
Another thing I found fascinating about the Fred Harvey system was its relationship with southwestern Indian tribes. Harvey loved the southwest, and purchased large amounts of Indian art for his restaurants. The company even went so far as to open its own Indian art museum. Though highly controversial by modern historical standards (pueblo buildings were faked and the Indians, called "living fossils" were paid to make traditional crafts in them for the entertainment of white visitors), the museum was the first of its kind in the country.
The book also makes the claim that the Fred Harvey system helped create the Spanish Colonial Revival Style of architecture, though their promotion of Pueblo and Spanish inspired buildings. The company actually built many hotels and restaurants as it grew, including the El Tovar lodge at the Grand Canyon. Interestingly, Fred Harvey was the first to really pursue large scale development at the Grand Canyon. They (I say they because Fred Harvey was both a man and a company) also worked hard to lobby the national government to make the Grand Canyon a National Park.
Overall, this book was a great read. If you're interested in the history of food in America, in the post Civil War period, in the American West, in American railroads, in the Grand Canyon as a tourist destination, even in Santa Fe/Spanish Colonial Revival Architecture, you'll like this book!
Please note - this is just a personal book review, no one asked me or paid me to do it!